Sunday, September 30, 2007

Dégustation means tasting, not disgusting!

A while ago, I was in Paris at the Porte de Versailles exhibition centre. The event was the annual Salon des Vignerons Indépendants de la France or the Independant French winegrowers exhibition.

This has to be a date for the diary for next year!
For a ridiculously small entrance fee - for me €2.50 because tickets were being sold at half-price - you are presented with an engraved official INAO tasting glass and entrance to a huge hall containing at least 500 independant wine growers whose sole objective over 5 days is to have you taste, and buy, their wine.

What is particularly brilliant about this event is that it gives wine a face. It is rare to be able to see and talk with the person who actually made the wine that you are tasting. I found it a little intimidating. After all, no-one can possibly know better than he all the conditions under which the wine was made and how it has evolved since. If he says it tastes minerally or vegetal...then it does and no argument!

In the hall are about 500 little stands, each one classified by the region the wine comes from. Bordeaux, Burgundy, Alsace etc., each with its corresponding colour. This means that you are tasting by geographic region i.e. Burgundy, rather than by grape i.e. Pinot Noir. Not, perhaps, the most user friendly organisation.

I set out with the intention of moving away from the ubiquitous Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon styles and wanted to try some fresher Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir but not necessarily Sancerre and red Burgundy. In the event, the organisation drove me to the Loire for Sauvignon Blanc - Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé and I stayed in Burgundy but tried some Beaujolais. Not the Nouvelle but some older and rather more elegant Crus or single villages. Excellent they were.

In the hall you could buy sandwiches and stuffed baguettes, foie gras and superb dried ham. You could also purchase little trolleys or "chariots" on which to pile your purchases and wheel them home. One note of caution - car parking is dire so think about transport before you buy too much.

In conclusion, if you are within range of Eurostar or Dover this is a "Must visit" weekend for the price, the variety and the sheer buzz of being in such a huge hall with such focus on the demon drink.

Do try French Sauvignon Blanc - Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé for example. More subtle than Chile or New Zealand.
Do try a Beaujolais Cru/Village such as Moulin à Vent or Juliénas with a couple of years ageing under its belt. You will be pleasantly surprised.

I bought:
Pouilly Fumé, Domaine du Bouchot 2003, Kerbiquet Père et Fils, Saint-Andelain, 58150 Pouilly-sur-Loire.

Beaujolais, Chateau du Moulin à Vent 1999, cuvée exceptionnelle, Famille Bloud at Romanèche Thorins.

Beaujolais, Juliénas, Côte de Bessay 2003, Domaine de la cave Lamartine, Paul Spay at Saint-Amours-Bellevue.

As this is not intended to be a wine anorak site if you would like to know more then please contact me.
Cheers.
A short story for starters.

Some years ago I was working and living in the 12th in Paris.

Waking late one Saturday morning, as one does, I really wanted some roast chicken and a small salad for my lunch. Fine - should be no problem. I lived just off a square, Place Daumesnil, around which were many real food shops, bakers, grocers and butchers. Yes - they still exist in Paris.

Choosing the butcher that was closer to me and which also had a rotisserie working hard making roast chicken and potatoes, I entered the shop.

"Bonjour messieurs-dames", as is the custom.

"Bonjour Monsieur" came the reply. "What is your desire?"

"Aah" I said. "I would very much like half a roast chicken and some potatoes for my lunch."

A look of crestfallen sorrow crossed Madame La Patronne's face.

"Navrée Monsieur"
- more than just sorry. This means absolutely destraught.

"All the chickens have been sold and it is too late now to cook another for lunch."

Then a beaming smile. She lays her hand gently on my sleeve and says

"But if you would like to come back at four-thirty, we could choose a nice one together for your supper."

Where else in the world will you find care and attention like that in the middle of a busy city?
That is why I love France and the French.